One dilemma about living in New York is the bewildering range of dining choices available. When I find a place I like, the temptation is to become a “regular,” but then I worry about all the other great places I’m not trying. I first tried Kuma Inn about a month after I moved here and was instantly hooked–the Asian tapas-style menu appealed to the grazer in me, and the cozy converted tenement on the Lower East Side appealed to the dinner-party-goer in me. I went there a few times with various friends during my first six months or so here, then got distracted by shinier establishments elsewhere. I finally made it back there tonight for the first time in nearly a year and fell in love with it all over again (and indoctrinated another friend). We sampled four little dishes between us: fresh vegetarian summer rolls filled with shredded jicama and carrots and dipped in a dark peanut-soy sauce; edamame bathed in basil-lime oil; squid sauteed with chilis, soy, ginger, and black beans; and adobo-crusted tilapia fillets with a ginger-soy dipping sauce. Everything was as delicious as I remembered and served in perfect proportions. I’ll have to treat myself again soon.